Streamlined, cutting edge design and innovative functionality are essential to eyewear by Sven Götti (above). The internationally recognised Swiss brand has been named winner of the renowned German Design Award 2017 in the Lifestyle and Fashion category for the elegant sunglass design – Tamal. The frame is among the Spin & Stow 360° collection, that features patented rotating temples, enabling the frames to fold flat, so the glasses can be carried easily.
The German Design Award has been recognising extraordinary design for over sixty years. Only projects that uniquely represent international design innovations and pioneering creativity are given this revered and respected tribute. The prize will be awarded in February 2017 at a gala event in Frankfurt. Congratulations Sven and the Götti team from Eyestylist! www.gotti.chJG
Opticians from Stuttgart and surrounding regions visited the recent Die Brillenmesse event, and eagerly viewed the diverse, independent eyewear collections on display. Creativity, individuality, and sleek design captivated enthusiastic visitors attending the show. Co-organiser Nathanael Wenger commented: “The Hall of Legends at Motorworld was again a perfect location for the 4th edition of Die Brillenmesse in Stuttgart. About sixty brands presented the autumn news. The spectrum from Adrian Marwitz to Zen Barcelona was enormous, and reflected many styles and new concepts.
“We were pleased with the show in Stuttgart this year; over 140 shops visited the event in two days – a few less than last year. The good weather during the weekend, and the closure of one important highway were reasons why fewer opticians visited. Nevertheless, the format of this small and elegant show is very well established in the south of Germany.”
From the fashion perspective, co-organiser Dirk Geissmann added: “Fine rimmed metal frames are more and more visible in several collections. Andy Wolf even launched a rimless line! 3D frames in combination with a face scanner are the next big thing. You Mawo from Munich seems to be ahead in the race. Frames crafted in natural materials are still hot, especially if they are fine rimmed like Feb 31st. The Italian brand offers the lightest wood frames with 2mm thickness. Kaleos is a new fresh brand from Barcelona.
Geissmann continued: “A new addition to Die Brillenmesse this year was the Think Tank Seminars that brought impact – and visitors – to the show. With Think Tank we want to discuss relevant issues for our market. This includes digital change, new technologies, the process of designing glasses, and more. There are many changes in our industry, and it is important that independent opticians are ready for the future. We had more visitors for the new platform in Zurich – and we will make sure that German opticians hear about Think Tank.”
Wenger concluded: “The dates for 2017 are now established. The next stop for us is Cologne on 6-7 May 2017. We are really looking forward to this show. It will be the third time in the Rhine-Ruhr region of Germany, and we think we will have a breakthrough. Zurich is 15-16 October 2017, and Stuttgart on 28-29 October 2017. We moved both shows back because of the late date of SILMO next year. For us it is crucial that brands can show the autumn news.” www.diebrillenmesse.deJG
Top image left to right: Co-organiser Nathanael Wenger; designer Stefan Flegl Wood & Cotton; designer Adrian Marwitz Adrian Marwitz Eyewear; designer Didier Voirol Metal Art Concept; co-organiser Dirk Geissmann
Photos: All images for Eyestylist by Bruno Kickner – all rights reserved www.kickner.de
Iconic shapes, a beautiful finish and well-defined details which appeal to a young generation – neubau eyewear presents its first sunglasses collection where the benefits of the iconic archival inspiration of its Austrian “mothership” brand Silhouette comes into its own. The collection proposes five individual designs, inspired by contemporary art, fashion and music, and reflecting the current zeitgeist in a refreshing and trendy way.
Their exceptionally high quality styling and comfortable wear makes these frames ideally suited to urban everyday needs. Technical competence meets an acute sense of aesthetics, with interesting architectural details (above, the Diana has a small eye-catching “indent” on either side of the frame front) as one special highlight of the collection. Each frame is coloured by hand, making every single pair of sunglasses a very individual companion.
October sets into motion the holiday spirit with Canadian Thanksgiving, Columbus Day and Halloween. For eyewear fans, it’s time to experience and celebrate fine eyewear at Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart. With its wonderful location – Motor World – where classic car enthusiasts can view spectacular vintage cars, Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart also offers visitors the opportunity to discover unique eyewear in this spacious venue. From Adrian Marwitz to Zen Barcelona, independent designers will present their latest collections. The stellar lineup of exhibitors (see the complete list at www.diebrillenmesse.de) highlights charismatic frames for both optical and sun wear.
Ic! berlin has a striking capsule collection of plotic and plotic-hybrid sunglasses in a smart “weekend blue.” Mountains and blue skies inspired Glacier (above) in 3D-printed design. Sunglasses that provide an outdoor style statement – and protection. www.ic-berlin.de
Round shapes have particular cache this season with new interpretations that are chic and alluring. Among Lafont’s new sunglass designs is Vannes, with a richly textured finish on the frame front. www.lafont.com
Andy Wolf, the Austrian brand, will present their latest innovations in metal eyewear. The frames are handcrafted in a special factory in the Jura region of France. More on Andy Wolf’s new collection at www.andy-wolf.com
A father and son business has launched in Germany, with Gerhard and Stefan Flegl creating their own label. Wood and Cotton features natural materials, skilfully crafted in the Stuttgart region. Bügel highlights a contemporary shape combined with high tech elements, that includes a splice technique between the wood temple and the acetate end piece. Discover more at www.woodandcotton.de
Note the dates! Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart 15-16 October at Motor World JG
An enthusiastic, welcoming reception highlighted the recent Hall of Frames 2016 Zurich exhibition. International independent designers, captivating eyewear creations, and a new venue – Stage One Event and Convention Centre Zurich – resulted in a spacious and successful environment to view beautifully created eyewear.
Co-organiser Nathanael Wenger commented: “The Hall of Frames 2016 edition was a huge success for us as organisers. We changed the location and had more space for exhibitors, visitors and sponsors. Over sixty exhibitors participated, and approximately one hundred and sixty shops visited the show during both days. Sunday was very busy; Monday a little quieter.
“We created a new platform called Hall of Frames-Think Tank. We invited eyewear experts to give a short speech. Themes were digital change, frame production, and the potential of 3D technology. The interest was high, and maybe one of the reasons why we had a record turnout of opticians. We are convinced that the seminars will become increasingly popular in the future.
“We had a nice presentation of Swiss brands at the show – three of them were absolute Newcomers. Baselli is a very elegant Swiss-made collection; Ringsum is a small acetate collection by Christine Haussener, a jewellery designer; and Einstoffen is a cool wood collection, whose origins are in fashion.
“The new location in the north of Zurich fits perfectly with the new concept of Hall of Frames, and there is even more space in which to grow.” Dates for the 2017 Hall of Frames Zurich will be announced shortly. More info at www.hallofframes.ch
Top photo left to right: Nathanael Wenger, co-organiser; Christine Haussener, designer Ringsum; Steffen Keil, co-organiser; Dirk Geissmann, co-oganiser; Sven Götti, designer Götti Switzerland; Eric Balzan, designer Hapter. Photo: Gilles Stüssi All Rights Reserved JG
At the heart of the fast-paced, fast-expanding frames market, creative innovation is as strong as ever, with independent designers and makers taking new routes that require experimental techniques, new technology and, at times, several years’ research and development. Silmo Paris is an international platform for inspired new design concepts and this year’s show confirmed that leading directions in eyewear revolve around huge opportunities in high-tech alongside a return to artisan principles and impressively high standards in handcrafting.
The Italian label LGR is one of the Italian leaders in small production artisan-quality eyewear. Founder Luca Gnecchi Ruscone (above right in model Scorpio) incorporates attentive details and finishes, noteworthy not only for their refined aesthetics but also for comfort and fit – the mix of classic and directional statement eyewear provides something for everyone who appreciates good design. Look out for their new “hammered” effect finish in the metal range – “it’s a little gothic,” says Gnecchi Ruscone with a smile. Very delicate metal profiles with high bridges connect each lens gracefully. www.lgrworld.com
Gotti Switzerland, a brand that specialises in quality, technical precision and beautiful quality materials, launched their first 3d printed collection: Dimension, at the show last weekend. Sven Gotti told Eyestylist he has been working with his team on this line for around three years with the aim of providing the same levels of detail, finish, comfort and fit in the cutting-edge material that they have mastered in acetate, horn and titanium. Further information at www.gotti.ch
RES/REI’s Oliviero Zanon continues on the artisan path with dedication to design finesse and innovative aesthetic detailing in Mazzucchelli acetate. The new frames with tiny perforated decoration are ingenious and make a wonderful addition to the core collection. www.resrei.com
With metal sunglasses booming in terms of prevalent trends, several directions were quickly identified at the Paris show: very fine profiles, continued attention on the zero base “flat” suns lenses, and all kinds of ideas for double bridges and lens shapes. The Vera Wang collection from Kenmark is a luxury capsule line that embodies these particular details with subtlety and flair. www.verawang.com / www.kenmarkoptical.com
Named after American actors – including Woody, Quentin, and Scarlet – the sunglasses in the Rigadritto collection are a first delightful step for the Rome-based brand Mondelliani towards an all metal construction. The frames are very light, easy to wear, and minimal in a design that speaks volumes on the face. www.mondelliani.it
Finally, collections using natural materials continue to expand with speed. The Silmo show had several highlights: Monoceros frames in buffalo horn, made from a single piece of horn, free from metal and plastic (www.monoceros.cc), Rigards’ buffalo horn creations by Ti Kwa, incorporating brilliant material mixes and exceptional textures, polished surfaces and coordinating colours – (www.rigards.com), and a new luxury eyewear collection in marble from the Italian Marble Inlay experts Budri, designed by Valerio Cometti in collaboration with Gianmarco Budri and a team of craftsmen. The collection has taken two years to come to fruition and includes marble, onyx and semi-precious stones. www.budri.com
Eyestylist looks forward to sharing further highlights, details and observations on the new collections in the months ahead.
Silmo Paris takes place from 6-9th October in 2017. For more details on the Silmo fair visit www.silmoparis.comCN
A high point of the autumn fashion calendar is the Hall of Frames exhibition in Zurich. This distinguished event brings together independent eyewear designers who present their latest artisan inspirations – an A-List of creative spirits. Eyestylist showcases several of the participants whose designs capture the seemingly limitless possibilities for striking frames.
Parisian designer Jérémy Tarian – whose latest stunning collection is presented in Zurich – also conducts Master classes at the Genève University of Art and Design/Switzerland (HEAD-Genève) for inspired and discerning students. This year – Jérémy’s second collaboration with the school – included a Workshop programme that required students to reinterpret tortoiseshell colour from Mazzuchelli – the renowned Italian acetate manufacturer. Eva by Eva Gaumé (above) was the winning student with her dynamic, bold design in tortoiseshell and luminous crystal. Her successful creation is now part of the TARIAN + Head collection. www.jeremytarian.com
Scandinavian design is acknowledged for its purity, clean and distinctive style. Monoqool handsomely achieves translating that heritage into eyewear with 3D designs crafted in Denmark, in super lightweight polyamide. The shape of a bicycle inspires The Actor in trendy Marsala red – a fashion colour to appreciate. www.monoqool.com
Glitter and shine dazzles on eyewear this season, and Swiss designer Didier Voirol translates his magical skills as a sculptor into frames. Contemporary shaping in metal highlights Pamela (above) sprinkled with tiny rhinestones that brighten your eyes, face, and perhaps perspective! Discover more Didier Voirol designs at www.metalartconcept.com
The Face à Face collection for 2017 procures inspiration from Oriental Art Deco concepts. Advanced technology and geometric lines – in aluminium and bronze with enlightened colour accents – bring vigor and individuality to Yokko. www.faceaface-paris.com
See the complete list of inventive eyewear designers presenting in Zurich this weekend – 2nd-3rd October – at www.hallofframes.ch JG
Bold colour, edgy eye shapes, a mix of exotic combinations and favourite touches of retro….the new trends are emerging as SILMO approaches at the end of the week. The show promises cool eyewear designs by a selection of the leading independent designers who set the agenda for creative trends and artisan quality at an international level.
They include Danish brand Ørgreen who present innovative ophthalmic and sun designs in a campaign by Casper Sejersen. The frames appear on models in a cold, concrete environment where solid surfaces and clean lines resonate simplicity and functionality. Each exclusive design offers the minimal edge of an Ørgreen design with a new colour scheme that embraces the opportunity of innovative finishes in slick titanium. Further details: www.orgreenoptics.com
Based on its masterful award-winning Soupcan design, Tavat launches “TAVAT SoupCan Collection 2.0” – a new extra light edition with pantos and round shapes available in “all-metal” or “combination” versions.
In this new series, TAVAT strives to reinterpret its brilliant design for every-day, all-day wear whilst staying close to the original. SoupCan 2.0 “C” features all acetate temples allowing for more adjustment and has removed a lot of material to give the overall aesthetic a more refined look. The adjustable nosepads and optional clip-on with melanin lenses makes the design ultra-wearable and suitable for all men and women. www.tavat-eyewear.com
British luxury label Finest Seven return to Paris to unveil new sunglasses in their luxurious heirloom collection known for its pristine elegance and well-tuned production which results in a great blend of lightness and design. www.finestseven.com
Timeless and breaking with convention, acetate model Kot from Vue DC shows energy and impact in a characterful shape, highlighting a brilliant upbeat combination of red and black. Made in France, the statement frame is also available in black and white, and two single colours with a polished/brushed finish. www.vuedc.fr
Sometimes classical with a refined colour palette is the most elegant and desirable choice for an eyewear wardrobe in the winter months. Akiko 2 by Face à Face draws its creative inspiration from the expressive qualities of Japanese ‘manga‘, displaying true elegance in its unique assembly of circles and arches. It demonstrates technical flair using a single nylon thread instead of screws. The lightweight aluminium in matt colours adds the exciting contemporary feel. www.faceaface-paris.com
Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from Friday 23rd-26th September at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details and registration visit www.silmoparis.com CN
“Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say, and not giving a damn” Orsen Welles
Eyewear style has evolved over time, and nowadays designers are manifesting creativity, originality and craftsmanship with distinctive identity and individuality. Suzy Glam – designed by Susanne Klemm – is among the new wave of eloquent creators who is transforming frames into ever more intriguing achievements. At Silmo, Suzy Glam will launch Limited Edition sunglasses that will be produced for only fifty fortunate wearers – worldwide. Glitters (above) combines daring, elegance and refinement. www.suzyglam.comPhoto by Aisha Zeijpveid in collaboration with Judith Veenendaal.
Danish design is symbolic with uncluttered, innovative products that embrace high quality, attentive and defined details – all resulting in quite the style statement. The latest Bellinger eyewear collection possess all those attributes, plus beautiful shapes and colours. Cello (above) is the epitome of refined, elegant and contemporary elements. www.bellinger.dk
Eyewear inspiration is derived from many sources – with history and aviation the foundation for frames in the Parajumpers Collection by Coppe-Sid. The American fighter aircraft Vought F4U Corsair, which was in service during World War 11, sparked the dashing, streamlined Corsair sunglasses (above), that are carefully handcrafted in Italy in acetate and metal, with a double bridge that is spot on trend. www.coppeandsid.it
Bold, impressive and high performance: Nielsen – chic and sophisticated in marbled grey acetate – is among the stunning new designs in the SALT. Optics Collection. Premium crafting, beautiful materials, meticulous details, and gorgeous colours feature in all SALT. designs. www.saltoptics.com Visit SALT. at Silmo Hall 5A G134. All the brands noted here will be presenting their collections 23rd-26th September at Villepinte. www.silmoparis.comJG
This delightful slogan appears on a shopping bag from the Wien Museum in Vienna Austria, and ideally relates to the 90th birthday of Oliver Goldsmith – the celebrated British Heritage eyewear company. Claire Goldsmith, the dynamic, resourceful, energetic and enthusiastic director, believes that “the best is yet to come. We fully intend to make the next decade more important than any other.” Claire (above) has graciously granted an exclusive interview to Eyestylist on OG’s potential insights and plans for the next decade…as they elegantly march towards their Centennial Anniversary.
In your opinion, why has vintage – eyewear styles from the 1950’s, 60’s etc. – continued to be so in demand? “They say out of adversity comes innovation, and the war years brought about huge adversity. What came off the back of that were decades of huge innovation in many walks of life. In the design world, everything from eyewear to car design and furniture to architecture – it’s all remained relevant from that period, and I think that comes down to what was going on in people’s lives at that time. Post war optimism and the feeling that anything was possible. Nothing had yet been done. Quite unlike how we feel today! Saying that, I see some designs coming out of new companies that I truly believe will stand the test of time themselves, and in sixty years from now will be hailed as vintage classics from 2016!
What are some of the differences between the OG frames created sixty-seventy years ago – and today? “To be honest we try hard to make no differences. There are some things like lens technology which has come a long way with improvement. We also have access to things like hypo allergenic hinges – but we make them in the old pinned hinge style! The Oliver Goldsmith brand is about clean and classic styling, and I don’t see us straying from that. The old saying ‘they don’t make ’em like they used to!’ does not apply to Oliver Goldsmith.
Are you planning any special celebrations or events for the 90th Anniversary of OG? “We have had a great year doing small events around the world to mark this special birthday, but as we draw closer to the completion of that year, we are focused on the new decade ahead of us. As a 4th generation Goldsmith heading up this side of the business, I want to ensure that the next ten years in the lead up to the company’s centennial celebration, we create and produce some collections which show that we still set the standard. We have so much planned already in terms of design and development of a new collection called OG DECADES. But I can’t say any more about that right now. We also have tonnes of new treatments planned for the much loved OG ICONS collection – a bunch of characters in their own right. The OG FAMILY collection is also continuing to grow with new relatives joining the line up each season. So really the message is let’s start the new Decade! 100 here we come!”
What is your favourite OG frame and why? “That’s like asking which of my children I love most! I have a couple of favourites: I love the Y-NOT because it’s just a total statement frame and it’s so OG! I love the OGLE – but we have never put it into production. Its only ever been handmade in England to order. I might consider it for ready to wear – watch this space – but I LOVE this frame. I love the INGEMA – the feel of it. It’s got 3-dimensional hand built temples. It was originally made for Michael Caine in the IPCRESS FILE. It’s another design that has only ever been handmade in England to order.”
This month Claire launches the stunning OG: Goldside Editions – with two defining designs from the family archive – Manhattan and Lord. The Limited Edition of only 500 pieces will be made in raw black and gold, with flat gold flash mirror sun lens – to mark the end of one OG decade and the start of another. Happy 90th Birthday Oliver Goldsmith! Discover more at www.olivergoldsmith.comJG
Sculptural details crafted into amazing shapes, and sci-fi aesthetics, characterise the spirited collection that RIGARDS by Ti Kwa will present at Silmo 23rd-26th September in Paris. The designs are bold and strong, yet surprisingly light, and extremely comfortable to wear – the secret…hollow-back construction. Nuance, mystery and glamour are key in RIGARDS RG0080AL Metalloid Black (above). Creative shaping enhances the rich, über-cool dynamic in the sunglasses.
Dramatic flourish in horn brings new flair and originality to designs. Signature finishes and daring craftsmanship are vividly expressed in RIGARDS RG0080 Horn Marble Sanjuro (above).
Optical flair with a dashing fluid shape highlights RG0080AL Metalloid Chrome. Expressive…Bespoke…Nonconformist…expect the wonderfully unexpected with RIGARDS. www.rigards.comJG
More than two decades ago when Sven Götti started designing eyewear, his first frame was in bona fide horn. “I love to work with this material, and I know people appreciate the product. This target group has found its personal style, and seeks the appropriate accessory to emphasise their individual character. They appreciate sophisticated, high-quality designs,” says the Swiss designer. Above photo: Borg in grey natural horn
Genuine horn has been used in eyewear since the middle of the 15th century. The horn featured in Götti frames is ethically and ecologically produced from Asian water buffaloes that are kept as farm animals. Nowadays, technological improvements ensure that horn eyewear is even more durable. Specialists create the frames entirely by hand – so each pair is a one-of-a-kind treasure.
The frames are incredible works of art, crafted with passion, diligence and love of detail. It takes three days to refine the surface with polishing paster and wood elements, and the frame finish achieves its unique sheen from an expertly trained artisan’s hand in a small German atelier. “Besides stylish creations, customers also appreciate sustainability,” observes Götti. The elegant authentic horn collection by Götti will be presented at Silmo 23rd-26th September. More Götti innovations at www.gotti.chwww.silmoparis.comJG